Absinthe

Absinthe

Picture yourself at the end of the nineteenth century in France. The Bohemian movement is in full swing. Revolutions in art and literature are brewing, technology is advancing rapidly, and more and more people are putting their creative efforts into the expansion of culture. You walk into a Paris café and see someone sitting at a corner table, scribbling or sketching madly, eyes fiery with enthusiasm. More than likely you see on the same table a glass containing a cloudy liquid— absinthe, the legendary“ green muse” to which many artists of the day attribute their creative insights.

Absinthe is among the most popular drinks around this time— not only in France but across Europe and even in the United States. But it is more than just a tasty alcoholic beverage: it’s a ritual. To prepare your absinthe in the traditional way, you begin by pouring about an ounce of the greenish liquid into a glass. On top of the glass you place a flat, slotted spoon on which a single sugar cube rests. You pour cold water over the sugar cube— slowly enough that it dissolves by the time your glass is full. As the water mixes with the clear liquid it turns cloudy— an effect called louching, caused by the oils in the absinthe. Finally, you stir the liquid with the spoon, then drink. ( A more theatrical variation on this ritual, performed by Johnny Depp’s character in the2001 film“ From Hell,” is to soak the sugar with absinthe first, then set it on fire, allowing the heat to melt the sugar before you mix in the water.)

Absinthesis

What you are drinking is a spirit made by distilling herbs. But that could describe many drinks; what makes absinthe special is the presence of a particular herb— Artemisia absinthium, commonly known as wormwood. This concoction was invented in1792 by a French doctor named Pierre Ordinaire. While living in Switzerland, Ordinaire was trying to create a patent medicine to cure stomach ailments. He tried wormwood in one of his recipes— along with anise and a variety of other herbs— and found it very successful. Eventually the formula became commercialized, and absinthe began to shift from an over- the- counter remedy to a refreshing drink, acquiring the nickname“ the Green Fairy.” Absinthe has a high alcohol content— nearly70%— and a slightly bitter flavor. Adding water and sugar before drinking it worked wonders in improving its mass appeal.

Unlike other alcoholic beverages, which have a sedative effect, absinthe was reputed to provide exceptional clarity of thought. Artists relied on it for inspiration and imagery. Among those who swore by absinthe were Van Gogh, Degas, Toulouse- Lautrec, Picasso, Hemingway, and Edgar Allen Poe. Oscar Wilde was a fan too, and was famously quoted as saying: “ After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally you see things as they really are, and that is the most horrible thing in the world.” Behind this wry commentary, though, was a troubling implication. An increasing number of people became convinced that absinthe was not a benign stimulant but a dangerous drug. Among those who drank absinthe excessively, there were numerous reports of hallucinations, convulsions, and even insanity.

It’s Not Easy Being Green

In1905, public anxiety came to a head when a Swiss farmer named Jean Lanfray shot his whole family. The newspapers were quick to point out that Lanfray had been drinking absinthe, not bothering to mention that he had also consumed a great deal of wine and other spirits that day. This was the final straw for those who vilified absinthe, and political pressure to rid society of this evil quickly mounted. In the years that followed, absinthe was banned in most parts of Europe, as well as in the United States.

The deleterious effects of absinthe were typically attributed to a substance called thujone, a component of wormwood. Nowadays, scientists believe there’s little or no truth to the notion that it is a dangerous drug. Every modern study of thujone suggests that the amount required to harm human beings is many times that found in even the strongest brands of absinthe from a century ago. In fact, to ingest enough thujone to do any damage, you’d have to drink so much absinthe that you’d have died— or nearly so— from alcohol poisoning. Thus one common explanation for the disturbing behavior witnessed in absinthe drinkers is that they were simply drunk— a problem, for sure, but not one unique to absinthe. However, a more interesting explanation is based on evidence that unscrupulous absinthe producers in the nineteenth century, in an effort to lower their costs, added a variety of toxic chemicals to their absinthe— such as a copper compound used to provide a green color. The effect of these toxins— added to that of the alcohol itself— is a much more plausible cause of the legendary absinthe madness.

The Glass is Greener on the Other Side of the Fence

In many parts of the world, absinthe is enjoying a comeback. The European Union now permits its manufacture and sale— as long as thujone levels are kept quite low. Many brands and formulations are available, with some trying to get as close as possible to the original taste, and others going in more trendy directions. ( You can even find red, blue, and clear absinthe.)

Nevertheless, old habits die hard, and it’s still illegal to import or sell any alcoholic beverage containing wormwood in the United States. On the U. S. Customs Service’s list of items that tourists traveling abroad must not even think about importing, absinthe is prominently mentioned— right up there with Cuban cigars. The prohibition comes from an ancient Food and Drug Administration rule, which in turn was based on anecdotal evidence, questionable scientific studies from the mid-1800 s, and long- forgotten political pressure. And yet it’s a rule that will probably persist for a long time, due to sheer inertia.

Absinthe Makes the Heart Grow Fonder

Canada, meanwhile, never bothered to restrict the sale of absinthe because it was never perceived to be a social or political problem there. While I was living in Canada, I was able to spend some quality time with the Green Fairy. I can attest to a subtle, but noticeable, increase in the clarity and vividness of my thoughts shortly after drinking absinthe— a much different effect than I’d expect from alcohol alone. Then again, I couldn’t say with complete certainty that the effect was not imagined, and there was an additional complication: the uncertain authenticity of the formula.

The only brand of absinthe commercially available in Canada at that time was Hill’s Absinth, made in the Czech Republic. Absinthe experts roundly dismiss Hill’s as undrinkable— a pale imitation of real absinthe. Personally, I quite liked it— but then, I had no experience with other varieties to serve as a frame of reference. ( I also found it mildly ironic that detractors should use the word“ undrinkable” because that is exactly the definition of the Greek word from which the name absinthe is derived.) On my next trip to Europe, however, I’ll make a point of sampling as many varieties as I can— in the name of research, of course. If my writing suddenly becomes much more poetic or prolific, you’ll know why.

On the Trail of the Green Fairy

If you want to find absinthe that more closely approximates what was available a century ago— minus the harmful toxins— reputable distillers in Spain, France, Germany, Portugal, and the Czech Republic produce a wide variety of brands. If you live in the parts of Europe( or elsewhere in the world) where absinthe is legal, numerous online retailers will be happy to ship you any of dozens of varieties of absinthe. Better yet, have it in a bar with the full ritual of water and sugar— and bring along a notebook in case the creative urge strikes.

In the United States, your only legal option is a wormwood- free substitute. Pastis is a liqueur sharing many of the same ingredients as absinthe, most prominently anise. Brands of pastis such as Pernod and Ricard are common throughout the U. S. In addition, numerous companies now produce pastis with names suggestive of absinthe— brands like Absente, Versinthe, and La Muse Verte. I’ve tried all of these and many others, and some of them are quite good on their own terms. However, it’s just not the same thing— comparing absinthe to, say, Absente is like comparing chocolate to carob. You can tell that they’re in the same family and can be used in much the same way. But they just don’t taste the same, or pack the same psychological effect. Until the law catches up with science, Americans will need to travel abroad to visit the Green Fairy.